🏖️ Beach of the Week: Puerto Escondido, Mexico
Puerto Escondido: Where Turtle Conservation Meets Monster Waves (and Every Beach Day Helps Save the Ocean)
Beach Destinations • Mexico Travel • Marine Conservation
Picture yourself standing on crisp white sand while 20-foot waves explode like thunder just meters away, then walking five minutes to a tranquil turquoise cove where baby sea turtles are taking their first breaths of ocean air. Welcome to Puerto Escondido, literally translated to "Hidden Port", a raw, surf-fueled coastal gem tucked along Oaxaca's Pacific coast. Twelve thousand years of indigenous history whisper through the region, but the town itself only popped into existence in the 1930s thanks to coffee ports and a long-standing pirate legend of La Escondida, the hidden woman who escaped her captors and became a myth that still hangs in the salty air.
Puerto Escondido sits on Mexico's southern Pacific coast in Oaxaca state, recently nominated as the next World Surfing Reserve by Save The Waves Coalition. The town's crown jewel is Playa Zicatela, known worldwide as the "Mexican Pipeline", a gnarly beach break that fires up to 40-foot waves during summer swells from May to September. Despite its growing surf fame, Puerto Escondido maintains its authentic Mexican coastal charm, with morning fish markets, family-run comedores (small local dining), and a laid-back vibe that feels refreshingly untouched by resort development.
Did you know? During peak arribada (turtle hatching) events, up to 1 million Olive Ridley turtles can arrive at nearby beaches in synchronized mass nesting events that happen 2-3 nights after each full moon. These ancient reptiles return to the exact same beaches where they were born, using magnetic fields as their GPS system after journeys spanning thousands of miles and decades of ocean wandering.
The contrast in this beach town is mind-bending: while professional big wave surfers chase board-breaking barrels at Zicatela, conservation volunteers patrol the same stretch of sand each night, protecting turtle nests from poachers and ensuring hatchlings make it safely to the waves. It's a place where adrenaline and activism intersect, raw ocean power meeting hands-on conservation work.
What to Do There
1. Surf (or Watch People Surf)
Zicatela fires its legendary barrels from May through September, when Southern Hemisphere swells march up from deep Pacific trenches. This is for advanced surfers only—the wave has zero chill and a well-earned reputation for breaking boards and bones. Believe me, I've been stuck in the washing machine zone here once and it was awful! Beginners should head to Playa Carrizalillo, a gorgeous protected cove with mellow, learner-friendly waves, or Playa Marinero for "little Zicatela" vibes, shorter, faster waves with more manageable power.
2. The Hikers of Puerto Escondido
One of the coolest experiences I've had here was joining The Hikers of Puerto Escondido for their guided mountain trails. You'll wind through dense jungle canopy, boulder down rocky canyons, and jump off waterfalls that feed into hidden lagoons—it is truly pure adventure therapy. The trails eventually lead to ridgeline viewpoints where you can get amazing views of the Pacific on the horizon. The local guides (Ask for Eric!) know secret spots that most tourists never see, and the combination of tropical flora, bird watching, and jaw-dropping coastal vistas and waterfalls makes for an incredible day away from the beach crowds.
3. Bioluminescent Magic
Just 20 minutes west of Zicatela lies Laguna de Manialtepec, where bioluminescent plankton create underwater light shows best experienced from July-September during new moon phases. The lagoon's name comes from Náhuatl meaning "water that is born from the hill", fed by thermal springs and surrounded by protective mangroves. Swimming through phosphorescent water feels like floating through liquid starlight, especially after 1-6 mezcals.
4. Bar Hopping in La Punta
If you're looking for something a tad more laid back than a boulder hike, head to La Punta, the chilled-out beach town that feels like Puerto Escondido's cool younger sibling. This laid-back neighborhood sits at the southern end of Zicatela Beach, where surfers and digital nomads gather around sandy streets lined with beach bars, mezcal shops, and taco stands. Hit up Bikini Bar La Punta for great margs, swinging bar seats, and perfect wave-watching, or grab mezcal flights at The Fish Shack while local musicians jam on the terrace. The whole vibe here is barefoot sophistication, where you can nurse a michelada at sunset and watch longboarders cruise gentle waves just steps from your barstool.
Culture & Local Eats
Puerto Escondido pulses with indigenous Zapotec roots, surf culture, and a growing wave of conscious creators drawn to its raw authenticity. The town maintains its small-town Mexican charm despite growing popularity as a global surf destination, with morning fish markets, afternoon siestas, and sunset sessions that feel more ritual than routine. The mezcal flows freely here (a little too freely sometimes) as Oaxaca is the birthplace of the agave spirit, and every bar pours small-batch expressions from local distilleries hidden in mountain villages.
Food & Drink Scene
Cafe Ole: Start your morning at Cafe Ole in La Punta for exceptional brunch and expertly crafted coffee drinks (try the double espresso Latte!) in a relaxed beachside setting that perfectly captures the town's laid-back surf vibe.
La Olita: For an early evening dinner (and the best tacos in town), head to La Olita, also in La Punta, where creative Mexican cuisine meets fresh local ingredients in an intimate atmosphere that feels like dining at a friend's stylish beach house.
Mombasa: When the sun goes down, head to Mombasa in La Punta, where Mediterranean cuisine meets serious cocktails and live DJ sets create the perfect dinner-to-dancing transition that keeps the party going until midnight.
Art & Architecture: The creative scene centers around Casa Wabi, designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando, which anchors a growing network of galleries and artist residencies. You'll also find some seriously cool minimalist hotels that mix concrete and local materials, the kind of places where you actually want to hang out in your room because the design is so clean and the ocean views are ridiculous.
Local Festivals: Time your visit for the Festival de Noviembre in November, when surf contests, live music, and cultural celebrations take over Zicatela Beach. The energy is infectious, you professional surfers competing alongside local kids, traditional dancers sharing stages with indie bands, and food vendors serving everything from cricket tacos to artisanal ice cream!
Where to Stay
Hotel Suites La Hacienda: This charming boutique property blends French elegance with Mexican warmth, featuring lush tropical gardens and a heated pool that creates an oasis of calm just minutes from Carrizalillo Beach (the chill one with smaller waves). Each suite has its own unique décor and fully equipped kitchenette, making it perfect for travelers who want both luxury and the flexibility to prepare their own meals.
Villa de las Rocas: If you are traveling with a larger group, this spectacular beachfront villa (IG - @villadelasrocas) in a gated community offers over 5,000 sqft of living space with ocean views from every room. Located only 24 minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from La Punta, the villa features stunning pool and ocean views throughout. Your stay includes a full-service chef who prepares breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus a dedicated cleaning team, making this the ultimate luxury beach experience.
Sustainability Angle
Puerto Escondido sits at the heart of one of Mexico's most biodiverse coastal ecosystems, where convergence of tropical and marine environments provides a critical habitat for endangered species both terrestrial and aquatic. But this paradise faces mounting pressures from climate change, coastal development, and ocean plastic pollution.
Conservation Success Stories: Local organization Vive Mar leads nightly beach patrols, collecting turtle eggs from vulnerable nests and relocating them to protected hatcheries. Community-led initiatives have significantly increased survival rates for sea turtle hatchlings, with volunteers coordinating protection efforts across multiple nesting beaches. The recent nomination as a World Surfing Reserve represents a unified community commitment to protecting both surf breaks and coastal ecosystems.
Getting There
Transportation
- By Air: Puerto Escondido International Airport (PXM) receives daily flights from Mexico City (1 hour), plus connections from Oaxaca City and other Mexican destinations. The small Puerto airport sits just 10 minutes from town center.
- By Road: The new superhighway from Oaxaca City, completed in 2024, cuts travel time to 2.5 hours, previously a winding 6-7 hour journey through mountains. Luxury bus services from Mexico City take about 10 hours but offer comfortable overnight options.
- Getting Around: Walking works for downtown areas, while shared taxis (colectivos) and scooter rentals provide easy access to different beaches. Always negotiate taxi prices in advance—a quick "¿Cuánto cuesta?" prevents misunderstandings.
- Best Time to Visit: Big wave season runs May-October; calmer conditions for beginners November-April. Peak turtle nesting happens July-December, with arribada events most spectacular August-November. Bioluminescence peaks July-September during new moon phases.
Insider Tips
- Download tide apps for optimal surf conditions and turtle spotting.
- Learn basic Spanish phrases for deeper connections with conservation volunteers and local communities, it'll help you a lot since the town is still gaining mainstream international popularity.
- Bring cash (pesos) since many conservation organizations and local businesses don't accept cards.
- Choose Reef-Safe Sunscreen: Avoid oxybenzone and octinoxate, which damage coral reefs and marine ecosystems
- Respect Wildlife: Maintain distance from nesting turtles, never use flash photography, and follow guide instructions during conservation experiences
- Support Community Tourism: Choose locally-owned accommodations, restaurants, and tour operators that directly benefit conservation effort.
Final Thoughts
Puerto Escondido offers something rare in today's tourism landscape: authentic adventure married to meaningful conservation work. Whether you're dodging 30-foot waves or gently releasing baby turtles into moonlit surf, this is a destination that demands respect while rewarding visitors with experiences that fundamentally change how you see the relationship between humans and the ocean.
This a living classroom where every wave teaches humility, every turtle release connects you to ancient migration patterns, and every mezcal-fueled sunset conversation with locals deepens your understanding of what it means to live in harmony with wild coastal ecosystems.
Next Up
Next up, we're jetting to the Adriatic, where sun-bleached stones meet sapphire water and ancient city walls tumble straight into the sea. This legendary city was a star throughout Game of Thrones (the home of King's Landing!). We're uncovering the beach where cliff-jumpers, snorkelers, and wine-sippers all find their fix. This is big-time old-world elegance meeting adrenaline junky adventure.
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